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Havana. October 1, 2004

485TH ANNIVERSARY OF HAVANA
The Italian influence

BY ALBERTO POZO —Special for Granma International

OF course, the first Italian who visited us was the Genoese-born Admiral of the ocean Christopher Columbus from October 21-27, 1492.

Almost a century afterwards, the famous engineer Giovanni Battista Antonelli arrived in Havana to construct the El Morro and La Punta fortresses at the entrance of the bay where the Spanish fleet met up with its cargo of gold and silver, the coveted prize of English, French and Dutch corsairs. He also built the Palace of Obispo – today the Don Giovanni restaurant – and finished work on the Zanja, Havana’s first aqueduct, which ended at Callejón del Chorro in Plaza de la Catedral.

But by then, there was already a community of around 300 Italian traders (smugglers perhaps?) in Havana, because the city was the center of trade for Spain’s American empire.

In 1613, the Mantova brigantine, under the command of Captain Anatolli Florenzano, ran aground in the Los Colorados cays in northwestern Cuba. They abandoned ship and sailed to Los Arroyos in order to set up camp in that area. They brought with them the image of the Virgin de las Nieves and built a chapel in a spot that would become the city of Mantua, the old name for Montova, a city in Italy.

Italians continued to arrive in Cuba. They had an eminent position in the arts and sciences. From the 16th century, we should mention Giroland Benzoni, who wrote The History of the New World in our country.

In the 19th century, the artist Guiseppe Pirovani created the oil paintings The Assumption and The Final Judgement. In 1952, after taking his exams Marcello Morolli earned the directorship of the San Alejandro Arts Academy. The quality of the retreat of Parque Central is owed to its director, Italian Giovanni Brechin.

In the field of sciences, one name that stands out is that of Dr. Pablo Zeglia who in 1833 opened his surgery and at the same time founded an academy of literature. Dr. Giuseppe Tasso installed the first chemical laboratory in the country, as well as being a professor at the San Ambrosio hospital. And there were many other physicians such as Giuseppe Chippi, founder of the Anatomy Office.

Another individual who deserves a mention is technician Antonio Meucci from Teatro Tacón (1849) who invented the telephone before Graham Bell in this period. This dispute was taken to the United States, but the U.S. inventor was awarded credit for the invention until recently.

During the 19th century, Italian cuisine was already very popular. “How I love the aristocratic and favorite unforgettable raviolis.” (Dolores María Ximeno y Cruz, in Memorias de Lola Maria. 1861). The new Cuban bourgeoisie of generals and doctors also enjoyed Italian cuisine. “The wines were French, German, Italian. The conserves were Spanish, French and Italian.” (René Méndez Capote, Memorias de una Cubanita que nació con el Siglo). There were many Italian restaurants throughout the 20th century: La Piccola Italia, in Consulado Street; Frascatti on Prado; Montecattini in Vedado.

But the absolute popularization of Italian food came in 1960 with the opening of an extensive network of pizzerias throughout the whole of the country, a task carried out by the socialist Revolution. Today, it can be said that pizza, spaghetti, macaroni, and lasagna form part of the culinary heritage of the Cuban people.

There will be an extensive display of Italian cuisine and others that have taken root in the country, at the Culinaria 2004 International Festival, from September 13-19 at the Hotel Nacional and later, during the November 2004 celebrations for the 485th anniversary of the founding of Havana.
 

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